Majestic Tawang Monastery perching over green mountain valleys and misty Himalayan peaks in Arunachal Pradesh
⛰️ NORTH-EAST OVERLAND DISPATCH

JOURNEY TO TAWANG (PART I : TEZPUR TO TAWANG)

CHAPTER 01 • ASSAM PLAINS

Tezpur – Gateway to Arunachal Pradesh

Nestled on the banks of the mighty Brahmaputra River, Tezpur is a charming town known for its scenic beauty, rich history, and relaxed atmosphere. Often called the cultural capital of Assam, it serves as the perfect gateway to Arunachal Pradesh and the mountains beyond. I spent two nights here before beginning my journey to Tawang, using the time to relax, explore the town's parks and riverfront, and prepare for the long and adventurous drive into the Himalayas. Tezpur proved to be an ideal stopover, offering a pleasant blend of nature, culture, and comfort before the high-altitude journey ahead.

CHAPTER 02 • HERITAGE & NATURE

A Stroll Through Chitralekha Udyan, Tezpur

A visit to Chitralekha Udyan, popularly known as Cole Park, was one of the highlights of my time in Tezpur. Established in 1906 during the British era, this beautifully landscaped park combines natural beauty with history. Lush gardens, a serene lake with boating facilities, and ancient stone sculptures recovered from nearby archaeological sites create a unique atmosphere where nature and heritage blend seamlessly.

Dandelion water fountain and lake at Chitralekha Udyan in Tezpur
Panoramic overlook of the mighty Brahmaputra River at Tezpur
Ornate red heritage gate pillars and warrior sculptures at Cole Park
Ancient stone archaeological sculptures amidst lush gardens by the lake
CHAPTER 03 • SACRED HERITAGE

Inside the Sacred Mahabhairab Temple, Tezpur

Stepping into the inner sanctum of Mahabhairab Temple is a deeply spiritual experience. The dimly lit shrine, filled with the fragrance of incense and the sound of ringing bells, draws devotees toward the temple's revered and massive Shiva Lingam, believed to be one of the largest in the region. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the temple exudes an atmosphere of devotion and tranquility, making it not only an important pilgrimage site but also a place where visitors can connect with Assam's rich religious heritage.

Revered Shiva Lingam inside the inner sanctum of Mahabhairab Temple
Illuminated ornate golden entrance facade of Mahabhairab Temple at dusk
Nandi bull sculpture and temple courtyard
Ancient white shikhara temple towers of Mahabhairab Temple
CHAPTER 04 • BOTANICAL PARADISE

Tippi Orchid Research Centre – A Paradise of Orchids

Nestled amidst the lush forests of Arunachal Pradesh, Tippi Orchid Research Centre is one of India's most important orchid conservation and research centres. The highlight of my visit was the stunning bamboo orchids, whose graceful stems and delicate purple-pink blooms added a touch of elegance to the landscape. Orchids are not only admired for their beauty but also play an important role in maintaining biodiversity, serving as indicators of a healthy ecosystem and supporting various pollinators.

Vibrant purple and white orchid blooms inside Tippi Orchid Research Centre greenhouse
Delicate hanging orchids and glasshouse research conservatory
Bamboo Orchid garden with purple-pink blooms at Tippi
CHAPTER 05 • HIMALAYAN SANCTUARY

Chillipam Monastery, Arunachal Pradesh

Perched on a hilltop near Rupa village in the scenic West Kameng District, Chillipam Monastery is a peaceful retreat surrounded by the majestic Himalayas. The monastery's striking Tibetan architecture, adorned with colorful prayer flags, intricate murals, and traditional Buddhist motifs, creates a captivating atmosphere of spirituality and tranquility.

Entrance pathway flanked by prayer wheel pavilions leading to Chillipam Monastery
Multi-tiered pagoda facade of Chillipam Monastery near Rupa village
Intricate Tibetan murals and ceremonial drums inside Chillipam Monastery prayer hall
CHAPTER 06 • SPIRITUAL HAVEN

Bomdila Monastery – A Spiritual Haven in the Himalayas

Perched amidst the mist-covered hills of Bomdila, Bomdila Monastery, also known as Gentse Gaden Rabgyel Ling, is one of the most serene and beautiful monasteries in Arunachal Pradesh. Inspired by Tibetan Buddhist architecture, the monastery features vibrant prayer halls, intricate murals, golden statues, and colorful prayer flags that add to its spiritual charm. The peaceful atmosphere, combined with breathtaking views of the surrounding Himalayan ranges, makes it an ideal place for meditation and reflection. We both enjoyed our visit to this historic monastery.

Mist-covered lawn pathways and Tibetan architecture of Bomdila Monastery
Polished wooden floor prayer hall and golden Buddha shrine inside Bomdila Monastery
CHAPTER 07 • DIRANG VALLEY ACCLIMATIZATION

Thupsung Dhargye Ling Monastery, Dirang

The monastery sits in the town of Dirang, which serves as a lower-altitude valley stopover. Travelers routinely visit this monastery to acclimatize before climbing up through the high-altitude Sela Pass (13,700 feet) to reach Tawang.

Grand flower-adorned staircase leading to Thupsung Dhargye Ling Monastery in Dirang
Ornate silk banners and golden altar inside Thupsung Dhargye Ling Monastery
Golden Buddha shrines and statues inside the prayer hall
Paved monastery courtyard against the misty Dirang valley pine forest backdrop
Portrait overlooking Thupsung Dhargye Ling Monastery
CHAPTER 08 • HIGH ALTITUDE CROSSING

Sela Pass – A World of Snow and Silence

Standing at Sela Pass, nearly 13,700 feet above sea level, felt like stepping into a different world. Snow stretched in every direction, covering the mountains in a pristine white blanket, while icy winds carried the unmistakable chill of the high Himalayas. Surrounded by fluttering prayer flags and breathtaking alpine scenery, I stood in awe of nature's grandeur. However, the beauty of Sela Pass comes with the challenges of high altitude. Visitors should be properly acclimatised, stay hydrated, avoid overexertion, and be aware of the symptoms of altitude sickness. With the right precautions, this spectacular Himalayan crossing becomes an unforgettable and safe experience on the journey to Tawang.

Panoramic view of snow-capped Himalayan peaks and partially frozen Sela Lake
Frozen white Sela Lake with fluttering prayer flags in the crisp Himalayan breeze
Misty high-altitude welcome arch gate at Sela Pass
Official altitude milestone sign: YOU ARE AT 13,700 FT at Sela Pass
CHAPTER 09 • MILITARY TRIBUTE & BRAVERY

JASWANT GARH WAR MEMORIAL

The scene is the Jaswant Garh War Memorial in Arunachal Pradesh, India, dedicated to Rifleman Jaswant Singh Rawat. It commemorates the battle fought by the 4th Battalion of the Garhwal Rifles during the 1962 Sino-Indian War. The memorial is maintained by the Indian Army and features a Buddhist temple-like structure honoring the martyr.

Jaswant Garh War Memorial entrance staircase with 4 Garhwal Rifles plaques and dragon pillars
Panoramic view of snow-covered Himalayan mountain range from Jaswant Garh War Memorial
CHAPTER 10 • REFLECTIONS & ENDURING SPIRIT

Welcome to Tawang

A serene Himalayan dog resting peacefully on the roadside along the highway to Tawang

Just before reaching Tawang, we stopped by the roadside to admire the magnificent mountain scenery. There, curled up beside the highway, a little dog lay fast asleep, completely at ease in the harsh yet beautiful Himalayan landscape. Unbothered by the cold, the altitude, or the rugged terrain, he seemed perfectly at home. As we prepared to leave, he slowly woke up, stretched, licked his lips, and wagged his tail in greeting. It felt as though he was saying, "Welcome to Tawang, strangers. Leave your worries behind. Don't think about the altitude or the difficult roads—simply relax and enjoy your journey in this peaceful land of the Buddha."

This became my favourite photograph of the trip. It reminded me that as we grow older, journeys can become more challenging, whether because of high altitudes, rough roads, or physical limitations. Yet the spirit of a wanderer must endure. Like this little dog, calm and content in his surroundings, we too can face life's challenges with acceptance, resilience, and a quiet sense of joy, continuing our journey one step at a time.