SOUTH
Kannur - where Theyyam Breathes Life into Tradition
We flew from Delhi and landed at Kannur International Airport, which is well connected to several Indian cities. Another convenient option is to fly to Mangalore, spend a few days exploring the city, and then take a scenic two-hour taxi ride to Kannur. For us, arriving directly in Kannur made the start of our journey smooth and hassle-free.
Kannur remains one of Kerala's underrated coastal destinations, attracting far fewer tourists than the state's more famous beach towns. The reward is a coastline of clean, uncrowded beaches where long stretches of sand can often be enjoyed in near solitude. For travellers seeking peace rather than crowds, Kannur offers the perfect setting to unwind. Whether it's a quiet walk along Muzhappilangad Beach, watching the sunset over the Arabian Sea, or simply spending quality time with loved ones, Kannur is an ideal destination for a relaxed and unhurried holiday.
Historical Landmark
St. Angelo Fort, Kannur
Perched on a rocky headland overlooking the Arabian Sea, St. Angelo Fort is one of Kannur's most significant historical landmarks. Built by the Portuguese in 1505 and later occupied by the Dutch and British, the fort offers a fascinating glimpse into Kerala's colonial past. Its massive laterite walls, well-preserved bastions, and sweeping sea views make it a delightful place to explore, combining history, architecture, and coastal beauty in one memorable setting.
Drive-In Beach
Muzhappilangad Beach
Muzhappilangad Beach, near Kannur, is India's longest drive-in beach and one of Kerala's most unique coastal attractions. Stretching for nearly 4 kilometres along the Arabian Sea, its firm sandy shoreline allows visitors to drive along the water's edge while enjoying spectacular sea views. The beach is ideal for leisurely walks, swimming, and watching the sunset, with the combination of golden sands, gentle waves, and a relaxed atmosphere making it a favourite destination for both locals and travellers.
Political Heritage
Sickle, Hammer and Kerala's Red Coast
One of the unusual sights at Muzhappilangad Beach is the presence of the sickle and hammer symbol, reflecting the strong influence of the communist movement in northern Kerala. Kannur district has long been considered a bastion of the Left movement, with trade unions, farmers' organizations, and workers' movements playing an important role in shaping the region's social and political history. The sickle and hammer, representing agricultural workers and industrial labourers, became a powerful symbol of these struggles. Its appearance on the beach serves as a reminder of Kerala's unique political heritage, where communist parties have enjoyed widespread popular support for decades.
Excursions & History
DAY TRIP FROM KANNUR TO MAHE AND THALASSERY FORT
A day trip from Kannur to Mahé and Thalassery Fort offers a beautiful blend of coastal scenery and colonial history along the Malabar coast. In Mahé, we enjoyed a peaceful walk along the sea and riverfront, soaking in its calm atmosphere that reflects its long colonial past, first influenced by the Portuguese and later strongly shaped by French rule. The journey continued to Thalassery Fort, built by the British East India Company in the early 18th century, which once served as a strategic trading and military centre controlling the spice trade. Together, these places showcase the layered European influence on Kerala’s coastline, from Portuguese beginnings to French and British expansion.
Culinary Heritage
The Magic of Thalassery Biryani
No visit to Kannur and the Malabar coast is truly complete without surrendering to the legendary allure of Thalassery Biryani. Unlike the more common versions found elsewhere, this culinary masterpiece is crafted using Khaima or Jeerakasala rice—a fragrant, short-grain variety that perfectly absorbs the rich, aromatic spices without becoming mushy. The secret lies in the meticulous slow-cooking process, or dum, which allows the tender, spice-marinated meat to meld seamlessly with the ghee-roasted cashews, raisins, and thinly sliced fried onions. Every bite is a harmonious balance of subtle spice and deep, savory comfort, offering a genuine taste of the region’s rich cultural tapestry.
Spiritual Heritage
Mridanga Saileswari Temple: An Ancient Shrine of Goddess Durga
A visit to Mridanga Saileswari Temple offers a glimpse into Kerala's rich spiritual heritage. Located in the peaceful village of Muzhakunnu, this revered temple is dedicated to Goddess Durga and is counted among the 108 ancient Durga temples of Kerala, traditionally believed to have been consecrated by Parashurama.
Secluded Sanctuary
Thottada Beach: Our Own Slice of Paradise
Unlike many crowded tourist beaches, Thottada was almost completely empty when we arrived, giving it the feeling of a private beach reserved just for us. The golden sands, gentle waves, and swaying coconut palms created a picture-perfect setting for a leisurely walk along the shore. With hardly anyone around, we were able to enjoy the tranquillity of the Arabian Sea and soak in the natural beauty of the Malabar Coast at our own pace.
Personal Reflections
My Time in Kannur
Kannur is a quiet coastal town that has largely escaped mass tourism, giving it a relaxed and authentic charm. What I enjoyed most was staying along the beautiful coastline and spending quality time with family, far from the crowds and noise of busier destinations. With good air connectivity and several interesting places within easy reach for day trips, Kannur proved to be an excellent base for a peaceful and enjoyable holiday in northern Kerala.
Practical Advice
Tips for Visiting Kannur
Best time to visit
October to March, when the weather is pleasant and ideal for sightseeing.
Stay
Choose a beachfront resort or homestay for a peaceful coastal experience.
Transport
Hire a taxi or self-drive car to explore beaches, forts, and nearby attractions comfortably.
Beaches
Visit early morning or at sunset for the best views and fewer crowds.
Muzhappilangad Drive-in Beach
Check the tide timings before driving on the beach.
Theyyam
If visiting between November and April, don't miss witnessing a Theyyam performance at a local temple.
St. Angelo Fort
Visit in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the midday heat.
Local cuisine
Try Malabar biryani, fresh seafood, and Kerala-style fish curry.
Dress
Wear light cotton clothes, sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat, as the coastal sun can be strong.
Relax
Kannur is best enjoyed at a leisurely pace—don't rush from one attraction to another. Its charm lies in its tranquil beaches, rich culture, and unhurried atmosphere.
